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Opening with very little

#1 User is offline   woodych 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 07:14

I am a beginner trying to improve my game by playing in BBO free tournaments and watching other players bid and play.

I am coming across many hands now where my partner opens 1 in a suit and I have maybe 11-15 face card points and assume it is game on.

At the end of the hand we have gone down having clearly overbid because my partner opened with 7-10 face card points on the basis of having a 5 card suit.

I have always been advised only to open (rather than a response bid) with at least 11+ face card points otherwise I am giving my partner the wrong signals.

It has now got to the point where I can no longer assume my partner will have what I would call opening points so I afraid to bid with what I have.

Can anyone please confirm if it is ok to open with so few points just on the basis of having 5 in a suit?

Thank you
Peter
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#2 User is online   hrothgar 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 07:33

Unless you and partner have agree otherwise, standard methods generally assume that players will have the equivalent of 10+ HCPs if they are opening in first or second seat.

Some players may choose to open a bit lighter in 3rd seat seat.
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#3 User is offline   billw55 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 07:45

Also, high card points are not the only means of evaluating a hand. For example:

KQJTx
Axxx
x
xxx

is a fine hand that I would open 1 in any seat. However,


Kxx
Qxx
KJxxx
Qx

has one HCP more, but nevertheless is a worse hand that I would pass in first or second seat.
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#4 User is offline   woodych 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 07:59

Thank you for those replies

Looks like I have to re-learn this game from scratch as I have always been told not to open that light.
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#5 User is offline   woodych 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 08:18

Hmmm, just tried what you both suggested opening with low points because I had a void suit with 6 spades my partner took my opener as i assume more that 10+ points asked me for aces we got doubled and went down badly.
I give up..lol
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#6 User is offline   billw55 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 09:03

 woodych, on 2016-March-10, 08:18, said:

Hmmm, just tried what you both suggested opening with low points because I had a void suit with 6 spades my partner took my opener as i assume more that 10+ points asked me for aces we got doubled and went down badly.
I give up..lol

If you can show us both hands and the complete bidding, we can discuss what went wrong.

In any case, bridge is a partnership game. You need to understand what your partner is doing, and vice versa. This can only come with experience - even an expert will have misunderstandings with a new partner.

No need to give up. None of us would get where we are if we quit after a few disasters. Which, by the way, never go away entirely, just become less frequent.
Life is long and beautiful, if bad things happen, good things will follow.
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#7 User is offline   nullve 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 10:17

The number of high card points (hcp) you need to open should depend on the shape of your hand. So instead of just counting hcp, I suggest you use the popular rule described here

https://www.larryco....nter/detail/481

when considering whether to open in first or second seat. (Opening in 3rd or 4th seat is a slightly different matter, though.)
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#8 User is offline   woodych 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 11:17

Thank you both and I wish I could show you that hand but I withrew from the tournament as I felt bad about the hand.

I will loom at that link, thank you

Peter
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#9 User is offline   Zelandakh 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 11:19

 nullve, on 2016-March-10, 10:17, said:

The number of high card points (hcp) you need to open should depend on the shape of your hand. So instead of just counting hcp, I suggest you use the popular rule described here

There is nonetheless a major difference in strength between QJ QJ QJ32 QJ432 and AKT98 KQT9 T98 T although both are Rule of 21 hands with the same number of hcp.
(-: Zel :-)
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#10 User is offline   billw55 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 11:20

 nullve, on 2016-March-10, 10:17, said:

The number of high card points (hcp) you need to open should depend on the shape of your hand. So instead of just counting hcp, I suggest you use the popular rule described here

https://www.larryco....nter/detail/481

when considering whether to open in first or second seat. (Opening in 3rd or 4th seat is a slightly different matter, though.)

Yes, the rule of 20 is another useful tool. But no tool is absolute, nor should be used in isolation. See my example above, with ten HCP and 54 shape. Are you passing? Would an extra stiff J make a difference?

Evaluation tools are guidelines, not substitutes for judgement.


Life is long and beautiful, if bad things happen, good things will follow.
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#11 User is offline   rmnka447 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 12:10

 woodych, on 2016-March-10, 07:14, said:

I am a beginner trying to improve my game by playing in BBO free tournaments and watching other players bid and play.

I am coming across many hands now where my partner opens 1 in a suit and I have maybe 11-15 face card points and assume it is game on.

At the end of the hand we have gone down having clearly overbid because my partner opened with 7-10 face card points on the basis of having a 5 card suit.

I have always been advised only to open (rather than a response bid) with at least 11+ face card points otherwise I am giving my partner the wrong signals.

It has now got to the point where I can no longer assume my partner will have what I would call opening points so I afraid to bid with what I have.

Can anyone please confirm if it is ok to open with so few points just on the basis of having 5 in a suit?

The advice you received about the amount needed to open was fine, especially for a beginner. I think the player who opened 7-10 high card points (HCP) because of a 5 card suit was quite a bit beyond the norm of what most good players would do.

Since you say you watch other players bid and play to learn, I'd suggest you look for an "interesting table" with JEC as a player. JEC is Jim Cayne, a world class American player, who has won many national and international events. Watch what hands he and his partner open at the 1 level. I think you'll find that they rarely open hands with less than what you were advised to do unless it's a weak 2 bid or preempt.

billw55 posed some good examples to show that there is more to hand evaluation than just HCP. They speak to how well the high cards work together to provide trick taking potential. One hand has them pretty much working together, while the other the high cards are dangling by themselves with reduced trick taking effectiveness.

One way to measure this is by counting quick tricks (also called defensive tricks). Quick tricks (QT) are combinations of cards in each suit that provide trick taking potential. You count them for each suit individually and sum the individual suit QTs for an overall number for the hand. Quick tricks are assigned as follows: AK(x...) in suit are 2 QTs, AQ(x...) in a suit are 1 1/2 QTs, A(x...) in a suit is 1 QT, KQ(x...) in a suit is 1 QT, and Kx(x...) is 1/2 QT. You can think of HCP as providing a count of the overall size of a hand while QTs measure the strength of its foundation.

Looking at billw55's examples - KQJxx Axxx x xxx - there's 1 QT in and 1 QT in for 2 QTs total for the hand. Kxx Qxx KJxxx Qx - there's 1/2 QT in and 1/2 QT in for 1 QT total for the hand. So you can see that although the second hand has more HCP, it has a weaker foundation. If it were instead KQx xxx KQJxx xx, it would have 2 QTs and be much better to bid on.

One widely taught standard for opening 1 of a suit bids is 12 HCP and 2 QTs for an opening bid in 1st or 2nd seat. With 2 1/2 QTs opening with 11 HCP is OK. All 3 QT hands are normally be opened. If you have 1 1/2 QT, you need some extra HCP normally 13-14 to open. 1 QT hands are not usually opened. (Now some posters may want to differ about these requirements. That's OK if that's their style. But for a newer player, these standards are a good basis for building solid bidding habits which is important for progressing as a player.)

Again, if you watch someone like JEC, I think you'll find that he doesn't vary much from what I'm suggesting.
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#12 User is offline   neilkaz 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 12:44

You can just go to bridgebase.com and login and check your hand records from when you played that T and then tell us what you opened on. IMO, you've been taught some different things about opening and some of it conflicts and may just be plain wrong. Perhaps your weakish hand with a 6 card suit should've been opened with a weak 2. Perhaps your PD overbid by immediately asking for aces... etc etc.
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#13 User is offline   mgoetze 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 13:59

Quite amazing, but it had to happen eventually... I agree with nullve! The Rule of 20 is an excellent starting point for beginners. Is it perfect? No, of course not. But I don't think woodych is getting much benefit from the attempts of other posters to discuss the finer points of hand evaluation. He needs a solid rule to go by for now and the rule of 20 fits perfectly.
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#14 User is offline   fromageGB 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 15:32

Bridge with random partners is a lottery, and you are not likely to develop judgement quickly. Much better is to find a partnership with someone on a similar (or better!) level and take the time to discuss methods. If you agree to open all 7 counts, it can work because you know what partner may have, but I would argue that it may not be effective. If you agree never to open without 12, at the other extreme, that will work better. But the rule of 20 is an excellent choice, and when playing with randoms I would stick to that and assume your partner has that for his own opening.

My preferred simple modifications to this are not to open an 11 count with a 54 shape, and to open 1m on a 12 count 43 shape.
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#15 User is offline   rmnka447 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 19:37

 mgoetze, on 2016-March-10, 13:59, said:

Quite amazing, but it had to happen eventually... I agree with nullve! The Rule of 20 is an excellent starting point for beginners. Is it perfect? No, of course not. But I don't think woodych is getting much benefit from the attempts of other posters to discuss the finer points of hand evaluation. He needs a solid rule to go by for now and the rule of 20 fits perfectly.

The problem with the rule of 20 is that it is one of the most misused devices there is. For example, if we make a minor change to one of billw55's example hands, you'll have a hand that meets the rule of 20 -- Kx Qxxx QJxxx Kx. It has 11 HCP and 9 cards in the longest two suits, but I'm confident that virtually none of the top notch players that I regularly play against would open that hand.

Marty Bergen (world class player recognized as a foremost bidding expert), who developed the rule of 20, regularly cites hands in his books hands that meet the rule of 20, but shouldn't be opened. He also cites hands that don't meet the rule of 20, but which should always be opened. So saying or implying that the rule of 20 is a tool that can be used indiscriminately is just plain wrong.

OTOH, change the example hand to xx KQxx KQJxx xx. I'm confident that virtually all those top notch players that passed the previous example would open this hand 1 in a flash.

What's the difference? (Hint: Check the QT count.)
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#16 User is offline   mgoetze 

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Posted 2016-March-10, 20:53

Interesting, rmnka447, you quoted what I wrote but I don't feel that you replied to it at all. In fact if you moved my quote to below your message, rather than above it, it would make more sense entirely.
"One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid, and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"
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#17 User is offline   1eyedjack 

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Posted 2016-March-11, 00:22

 woodych, on 2016-March-10, 08:18, said:

Hmmm, just tried what you both suggested opening with low points because I had a void suit with 6 spades my partner took my opener as i assume more that 10+ points asked me for aces we got doubled and went down badly.
I give up..lol

Was this your hand?


Yes you have your void but you only have 5 Spades, not 6. Which would make a big difference but even then I think not big enough. Your suits are simply too poor. Just because it may be acceptable to open some hands light, it does not mean that every hand should be opened.

Your partner shares some of the blame. 4N response is a bit precipitous, but really this is not an opener.

Position is also important. If your partner has already passed then he is unlikely to respond with blackwood. In 3rd seat after 2 passes you may expect LHO to be strong and need to stir it up and deny him a free run at the auction. Hence you are given more latitude in 3rd seat than in 1st or 2nd.
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Masterminding (pron. mPosted ImagesPosted ImagetPosted Imager-mPosted ImagendPosted Imageing) tr. v. - Any bid made by bridge player with which partner disagrees.

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#18 User is offline   GrahamJson 

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Posted 2016-March-11, 04:07

"I am a beginner trying to improve my game by playing in BBO free tournaments and watching other players bid and play."

Stop there. I'm afraid that you will not learn how to play well by doing this. The great majority of players on BBO are of very low standard. You will be much better off by reading some decent books on bidding and play. Start with basic texts and work your way up. Also, don't get carried away with conventions. BBO is full of players who know Cappelletti but can't count to thirteen. Don't forget that most conventions are only useful in a regular partnership in which you have discussed details such as follow up bids. So initially just keep to Stayman, transfers, Blackwood, etc, and avoid more complex stuff such as Drury.

My general observation from watching BBO is that players are generally too busy in the bidding, often making pointless (sometimes literally) bids. Usually their oppo let them get away with it because they are just as bad, but that wouldn't be the case against strong players. I think that this applies to your original question. 12 points is a reasonable expectation for an opening bid, but this may go down a point or two if the distribution is good and the points are in the long suits.

You might also consider subscribing to Bridge Magazine, which is now available on line only.

In short, read, read and read some more. And I mean books, not internet sites.
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#19 User is offline   GrahamJson 

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Posted 2016-March-11, 05:00

One clarification. I should perhaps have added a "present company accepted" to my first para above. I have noticed that players who contribute to discussions such as this usually give good advice and are far better players than most on BBO.

I should also point out that you should ignore player ratings on BBO. Most "Experts" are average at best. There are very few true experts around. You can check their ratings on BBOskill.com, but even that isn't very reliable, although it is an improvement on the self ratings.
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#20 User is offline   fourdad 

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Posted 2016-March-11, 06:38

 GrahamJson, on 2016-March-11, 04:07, said:

"I am a beginner trying to improve my game by playing in BBO free tournaments and watching other players bid and play."

Stop there. I'm afraid that you will not learn how to play well by doing this. The great majority of players on BBO are of very low standard. You will be much better off by reading some decent books on bidding and play. Start with basic texts and work your way up. Also, don't get carried away with conventions. BBO is full of players who know Cappelletti but can't count to thirteen. Don't forget that most conventions are only useful in a regular partnership in which you have discussed details such as follow up bids. So initially just keep to Stayman, transfers, Blackwood, etc, and avoid more complex stuff such as Drury.

My general observation from watching BBO is that players are generally too busy in the bidding, often making pointless (sometimes literally) bids. Usually their oppo let them get away with it because they are just as bad, but that wouldn't be the case against strong players. I think that this applies to your original question. 12 points is a reasonable expectation for an opening bid, but this may go down a point or two if the distribution is good and the points are in the long suits.

You might also consider subscribing to Bridge Magazine, which is now available on line only.

In short, read, read and read some more. And I mean books, not internet sites.


I could not agree more!!!
Find a regular partner and work out a system with them and STICK TO IT!!
Do not over complicate it in the beginning with too many conventions. Every time you add a convention, you also TAKE AWAY other bids. You will be learning when you can discern this.
There are groups on BBO that offer mentoring.....join one!!

as to your post..........1/2 seat 12HCP and a 5 card suit and 11HCP w/ a 6 card suit and 2.5 OT's will keep you out of trouble most of the time. I would not employ rule of 20 as a beginner as you have no experience that would help know when not to use it.
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